Journeys for Knowledge

I have been keeping a little busy working through my backlog of Gundam models as of late. The first of these models was a gift from my friends, since they are all well aware of my hobby and knew I would like this particular model. It was strangely difficult to finish, especially the sword itself. Overall I am quite happy with the results, and will soon feature it at my desk.

The second model was a bit more of a surprise. I purchased it on a whim since it was on sale, and did not expect too much from it. Unlike most other models it does not come with any weapon accessories to wield, but instead a set of parts to transform from a normal state to an ignited hyper mode. It was also far more flexible than I expected, having been designed around hand to hand combat. All in all both of these models were a treat to build, and much needed respite from the work I am currently occupied with.

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As we ran about Sapporo enjoying our final evening in the city, we came upon a large dancing festival known as Yosakoi Soran that was taking place in the central park. Along each side of the park, teams of dancers would perform a routine that traversed the block on the street, before resetting at the next intersection and performing again. These teams would make their way around the park this way, performing for the public with colorful costumes and precise coordination.

The following videos are such some examples of these dances, as we only saw a small fraction of the full performances.

Just an aside, this flag bearer is just one of many such bearers bringing up the rear of their dance troupe, and is nothing short of astounding.

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Today we had to bid farewell to the mountains, and make our way back into the fields towards Sapporo. This would take us through many of the major touristy scenic points in Hokkaido, including the famous Furano lavender fields. Before that however, we passed through farms of all types, growing everything from rice to cows. Ever in the background the tall mountain of Daisetsuzan loomed, partially hidden in the clouds.

Off the main road, we sought another recently popular tourist destination, a blue lake made famous as a background in OSX. The unique blue color of the water comes from aluminum deposits in the flooded soil, supporting the eerie dead trees that rise out of the artificial lake. The lavender and other flower fields of Furano proved to be equally vibrant, though the main strain of lavender had already bloomed a month ago. After a light snack of lavender flavored food, we set off for Sapporo to enjoy our final night in Hokkaido.

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Unfortunately during our time in the eastern side of Hokkaido I was primarily occupied driving from place to place, so there is very little I can show of that time. However, this all changed as we approached the one region I had wanted to visit the most on this trip, Daisetsuzan National Park. This park lies at the center of Hokkaido, encompassing the largest mountains on the island and its most popular backpacking trails. Although we were too early to climb the mountains, we did find another onsen town to rest in.

Unlike Noboribetsu, the town of Tenninkyo was strangely empty, with only the sound of the river to fill the narrow valley. The onsen itself was also more modest than previously, but it had just the right intimacy to allow us to relax after yet another long day. Just the warmth of the water against the cool air and the sounds of the flowing river.

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Along with its green mountains and rolling fields, Hokkaido is also known for its plentiful onsens, or hot springs. Our first foray in to this side of Hokkaido occurred in the small town of Noboribetsu, hidden in the mountains amidst the trees and mineral deposits. These same deposits provide the town with water unusually rich in sulfur and iron, making it ideal for onsen use. Arriving in the evening allowed us to unwind with a good soak, and another one in the morning.

Fully refreshed, we set out the next morning to explore the source of the mineral baths we enjoyed, finding a park filled with sulfur deposits and boiling water baths. While most of the water was far too hot in enjoy. Just down the river near the entrance of town lay a convenient flow of sulfur water to soak one’s feet. While this was a very recuperative morning, the rest of the day was spent pushing hard to drive across the island to our next destination, in the East.

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As I alluded to previously, we were not quite done with Lake Toya and the surrounding area after our brief visit to Hakodate. Not only did we intend to visit the island at the heart of the caldera, but we insisted on taking the castle ferry there for the sheer novelty of it. Turns out the local birds were also fond of this ferry, constantly bickering over who got to sit at the front. As we approached the isle, what appeared as one island was revealed to be two, with a hidden cove as the port of call. Our trek through the island revealed a peaceful and untouched forest, benefiting from the rich volcanic soil.

Back on the shore, we found the flip-side of such volcanic activity, devastation. Although I have been to other volcanic area, never have I seen how a single lava flow can do so much damage to a town. The fact that they left these buildings intact as a memorial to that evening was profoundly heartening. A constant reminder that no matter how high humanity builds, ultimately we are only as strong as the Earth we build upon.

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Having finished with Sapporo for the time being, we set off the next morning to pass through the southern mountains towards Hakodate, the famous port city of Hokkaido. Along the way we became acquainted with many staples of Hokkaido life, such as logging, potato cuisine, and the gorgeous green backdrop of mountains everywhere. Just as we were leaving the mountains we pulled over to enjoy Lake Toya, a caldera formed long ago. We would come back to explore the lake more tomorrow, but for that night we pulled into Hakodate and raced to the top of the local mountain to enjoy the stunning night view. Not only could you see all around the city, connected by a narrow isthmus, but the mainland of Japan to the south was also dimly visible. A twinkling reminder of the greater connectivity of Japan.

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Last year I had the fortunate experience to visit Sapporo briefly as part of a study tour with my classmates. Although we did not have much time to explore, I knew immediately that I wanted to return and become better antiquated with the northern isle. Finally this month I had that chance to return, with three of my friends accompanying me as we drove all around the island. I will be breaking this story up into many parts, so the first piece today will only reflect the first couple days.

We began our journey in Sapporo, though after briefly spending a night we drove west towards the picturesque town of Otaru, famous for its canal. After sampling fresh sushi at a local restaurant, we set out for our ultimate goal of Cape Shakotan at the western edge. Along the way we were distracted by a local fishing festival that was coming to a close. Although the BBQ stalls had already closed, the last batch of cooked seafood was given to us for free, much to our delight. There was something awfully satisfying about not just being given free food, but eating the scraps and finding them so delicious. Of course we left some nibbles for the local cats, shy as they were, and set off for the cape.

As it turns out, we missed the cape, overshooting it for Cape Kamui instead, but the views were no less awe inspiring as we arrived with 20 minutes to enjoy the sunset. After our first day of driving and exploring, it was a fitting end for the day. Unfortunately this was also when it became clear that none of us had properly prepared for the cold of Hokkaido. By the time we were returning to the car I had to run down just to warm myself up enough to feel functional again, with enough time to warm the car for everyone else.

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It has become apparent that a PhD leaves me far too occupied to even explore the island of Okinawa around me. Fortunately the occasional external force comes along to encourage me to really get out of the lab, and campus. In this case my friend Shalmalee had come to visit me in Okinawa, so naturally we went to explore many parts of the island I had neglected in my previous travels, including many major tourist spots.

The biggest of these tourist spots in Shuri Castle in Naha, close to downtown and one of the few remaining structures from the era when Okinawa was an independent kingdom. Thus the castle is atypical for a Japanese castle, but offers a wonderful view of the city of Naha. We only had a brief time to spend in Naha before resting for the day, but the next morning we set off to the north.  Unlike the busy urban south, the northern part of Okinawa is mostly wild and uninhabited, with the exception for a couple small towns and the major aquarium. Kouri Island is one such outpost in the north, connected by the longest bridge in Okinawa. Despite being small enough to drive around within an hour, the island offered many secluded coves to play in, and many sea urchins to go with them. I advise though when walking on the slippery rocks, it is best not to also be trying to capture a picture.

Moving inland now, we hiked deep into the forest to find the popular site Hiji falls. While not the most impressive falls I have ever seen, they were remarkably pristine and offered an interesting look into how the rocks had been carved over the centuries by this small river. However what was far more impressive lay further north, just before the northern tip of Cape Hedo, Dai Sekirinzan, a national park. The view from up here was breathtaking, and the rock formations littering the park belied an untouched pristine nature that controls the north. Okinawa is much older than many people realize, and gems like Dai Seikirinzan and Gyokusendo Cave are reminders of a deep geologic history that the island hide.

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Just like last year, I made my brief trip home in May to see my family and get back in touch with my American lifestyle. Having been away from home for over a year, the transition was jarring to say the least. Among all the aspects of home I missed, one of the biggest was easily the California mountains. As such, my parents and family friends took me up to Mount Shasta for a weekend, to enjoy the mountain air and peaceful surroundings. This was a bit difficult due to my massive exhaustion and jet lag, but by the end of the trip I was feeling rejuvenated.

One important thing to note is we made this same trip last year, but at that time California was still suffering a drought, so the summit area was dry and rocky. This year has plenty of rainfall for the state, so when we returned to the summit region I was shocked to find ample amounts of snow all around, even at the beginning of summer. After my time in sunny Okinawa and a dry winter in Cambridge, it was the first time I was seeing and holding snow in several years. Just another shocking reminder of how far away from my old life graduate school is taking me.

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